This seaside town on the Causeway Coast of Northern Ireland has everything you’d expect of an upmarket Victorian resort — the pretty harbour, the promenade, the bandstand, and a 125-year-old golf club with three links courses. Its biggest draw, however, has always been the two-mile length of Portstewart Strand, a sweeping sandy beach backed by duneland. At its western end is the Barmouth, where the River Bann meets the sea, overlooked by the domed top of the Mussenden Temple, high on the cliffs above. To the east sits the town, with its smart cafes, bars, and delis, not to mention a very popular ice cream parlour, its headland dominated by the white 19th-century facades of Dominican College, which was once O’Hara Castle.

Further retreat into nature can be found at the Barmouth Wildlife Reserve on the western bank of the Bann Estuary, a wetland habitat for waterfowl and waders. The town also marks the starting point of the Causeway Coast Way, a 33-mile walking route that takes in one of Northern Ireland’s dramatic natural attractions, the Giant’s Causeway.

The nearest airport is the regional City of Derry (LDY), which operates flights from various UK destinations. The airport is 26 miles from Portstewart, roughly a 45-minute drive to your accommodation. But Belfast International Airport (BFS), which has international flights as well as serving many UK cities, is only a 60-minute drive. Public transport options are not straightforward; there’s a train from Antrim to Coleraine, and you’ll need to make the rest of the way by bus or taxi. You won’t need a car once you’re in the tiny town of Portstewart, and there are local buses to Portrush, Coleraine, and the Giant’s Causeway, but a car can be very useful for exploring the coast further.

Portstewart is a special place in summer, when the sun is out and the dunes are alive with flowers, bees, and colourful butterflies. The temperatures never get unpleasantly hot, and in July the town hosts its week-long Red Sails Festival, a community-led tradition that combines music and family entertainment and ends in a climactic fireworks display. In May, Portstewart gets busy with biking enthusiasts who come to watch the North West 200, one of the world’s fastest motorcycle road races and Ireland’s largest outdoor sporting event. The marine mammals that frequent this coast, from whales and dolphins to grey seals, mean that whatever the weather, there’s always something special to see. Autumn is a particularly busy time for the migratory birds in the Bann Estuary.

Herring Pond

This deep-water sea pool sits among the rocks at the bottom of the cliffs beneath Kinora Terrace. Herring Pond has been used for open water bathing since the Victorians first started coming here, and is a popular attraction with locals and visitors alike. If you come here on St Patrick’s Day, you can even take part in its special Duck Dive fundraiser.

Downhill Demesne

The Mussenden Temple that can be seen from Portstewart Strand is just one of the architectural follies to be found on this 18th-century estate. The grounds surrounding the ruins of this mansion offer tantalising glimpses of its former glory, including a bog garden and the Black Glen arboretum.

Flowerfield Arts Centre

This vibrant cultural hub, which hosts year-round exhibitions and artistic residences and stages workshops and musical performances, was the first arts centre to open in Northern Ireland. It’s housed in an elegant Victorian mansion and is a family-friendly environment, with plenty of activities and courses designed for children.