Holiday rentals in Almería

Overlooked in all directions by its impressive Alcazaba, a royal palace some thousand years old, the port city of Almería remains one of Andalusia’s lesser-seen jewels, with white-sand beaches stretching away along its Mediterranean coast that can be enjoyed in almost total peace. Named for its hillside caves, some of which still are inhabited today, the Barrio de La Chanca is the city’s picturesque historic quarter, and includes a Gothic-Renaissance cathedral built fortress-style to protect residents from the Berber pirates who roamed this coast in the 17th century.

There’s a lively tapas scene here — it’s the custom in Almería for every drink to be served with a free dish — and some truly fascinating museums. The Museo de Almería can trace the area’s human habitation back to the Los Millares civilisations of 5,000 years ago, while the Casa del Cine de Almería celebrates the spaghetti Westerns that were shot in the neighbouring Las Tabernas desert; you can still visit the film sets on a day trip.

Thanks to its semi-arid climate, Almería is the driest city in continental Europe. So if you’re looking for uninterrupted good weather, a villa in Almería is the place for you: The sun shines here an average 320 days a year. The city has a calendar packed with street festivals and vivid spectacles, from the music and dancing of the February Carnival to the eye-catching processions and parades of Holy Week and Easter, which take place in March or April, depending on the church calendar. On the evening of 21 June, people take to the beaches to light bonfires, let off fireworks, and enjoy evening concerts for the city’s legendary St. John’s Night. Other festivals include the Cruz de Mayo in May and the feria and fiesta celebrating the city’s patron saint, Virgen del Mar, in August.

Alcazaba de Almería

Almería’s pre-eminence as a port during the Al-Andalus period is manifest in this magnificent citadel, built for the Caliph of Cordoba in the 10th century. Its palatial dwellings and vaulted ceilings were added and repurposed over the centuries that followed. The fortified complex is free to visit, and worth the climb to enjoy the views over the city and the sea.

Cabo de Gata-Nijar Natural Park

A mere 30 minutes to the east of the city, the protected coastline of Cabo de Gata, Europe’s only true desert, is home to some of Spain’s most extraordinary and isolated beaches, including Playa Agua Amarga and Playa de los Muertos. Translucent blue waters, dramatic cliffs, and unspoilt fishing villages all add to the charm.

Paseo de Almería

The main street through the city is lined with shops and boutiques, but if you turn left along Calle Trajano towards Plaza Masnou and the cathedral you’ll come to the gastronomic heart of town, where tapas bars serve the local dishes of ajo colorao (fish stew) and gurullos (rabbit pasta). Treat yourself to an afternoon nap, as people dine late here, and the bars stay open until dawn.