Helena’s Guidebook to Mouthier and Surroundings

Helena
Helena’s Guidebook to Mouthier and Surroundings

Food scene

You wont go hungry in Mouthier! Not only do you have a fully equipped mega kitchen in the house, an OFYR BBQ in the garden, but you also have plenty of spots to buy food and drink, see my selection below.
You can find everything you may need, 90% of the goods are organic or local, or both. You can also get your daily baguette or croissants (in high season its best to pre order bread as they run out). They also have great take out coffee and espresso.
La Petite Epicerie
16 Rte des Gorges de Nouailles
You can find everything you may need, 90% of the goods are organic or local, or both. You can also get your daily baguette or croissants (in high season its best to pre order bread as they run out). They also have great take out coffee and espresso.
This is a local brewery, open sometimes at weekends (otherwise La Petite Épicerie (village shop) also stocks their beers). It is lovely to cool down here after a look hike with a great beer listening to the fountain and contemplating the wisteria blooming opposite.
Brasserie Entre 2 Mondes
12 Rue Ernest Reyer
This is a local brewery, open sometimes at weekends (otherwise La Petite Épicerie (village shop) also stocks their beers). It is lovely to cool down here after a look hike with a great beer listening to the fountain and contemplating the wisteria blooming opposite.
This is a great family run butchers shop. Excellent produce for sale. Closed on Thursdays when they are at the market in Pontarlier. The shop is about 20 meters from the house down the same street.
Boucherie Charcuterie Villain
37 A Grande Rue
This is a great family run butchers shop. Excellent produce for sale. Closed on Thursdays when they are at the market in Pontarlier. The shop is about 20 meters from the house down the same street.
This restaurant has a nice outdoor area and is on the village square of Mouthier. They serve simple meals such as fried fish from the river and salads with local ingredients. It is also a nice place for a coffee and some ice cream or for a beer and/or a glass of wine.
Le Relais Du Prieuré
3 Place Césaire Phisalix
This restaurant has a nice outdoor area and is on the village square of Mouthier. They serve simple meals such as fried fish from the river and salads with local ingredients. It is also a nice place for a coffee and some ice cream or for a beer and/or a glass of wine.
This is a small hotel in Mouthier which has a restaurant with slightly fancier meals and set menues. Ideally call beforehand to check opening times and to book a table.
Hôtel Restaurant La Cascade
4 Rte des Gorges de Nouailles
This is a small hotel in Mouthier which has a restaurant with slightly fancier meals and set menues. Ideally call beforehand to check opening times and to book a table.
This restaurant is just before you enter Ornans about 20 minutes drive downstream from Mouthier, right next to the Canoe rental. It has good burgers and salads, nice rose wine and during the summer a cocktail bar next to the river. Its relaxed and easygoing with a large outdoor area, but also an open fire inside during chilly spring and autumn evenings.
Canoë Café
Route de Montgesoye
This restaurant is just before you enter Ornans about 20 minutes drive downstream from Mouthier, right next to the Canoe rental. It has good burgers and salads, nice rose wine and during the summer a cocktail bar next to the river. Its relaxed and easygoing with a large outdoor area, but also an open fire inside during chilly spring and autumn evenings.
Also called Auberge du Larmont, is a short drive on top of the hill above Pontarlier. From here you can watch the sunset over Pontarlier and the moon rise on the other side over Switzerland. Every Thursday during the summer they have Apero Mix (musique). JEUX-DI APÉRO-MIX – TOUS LES JEUDIS DE L’ÉTÉ – 18H/22H In September they have different bands during the weekend, check their website for information. The food is varied and they also do cocktails.
8 locals recommend
Restaurant Les Papillons
Chemin du Larmont
8 locals recommend
Also called Auberge du Larmont, is a short drive on top of the hill above Pontarlier. From here you can watch the sunset over Pontarlier and the moon rise on the other side over Switzerland. Every Thursday during the summer they have Apero Mix (musique). JEUX-DI APÉRO-MIX – TOUS LES JEUDIS DE L’ÉTÉ – 18H/22H In September they have different bands during the weekend, check their website for information. The food is varied and they also do cocktails.
This is a simple restaurant with a nice terrace in neighbouring village Lods. You can walk to Lods using the path that goes through the fields, you can find it by walking up the street of the house for about 10-15 minutes, then its sign posted, the walk takes about 30 minutes.
Hôtel de France
1 Place Pezard
This is a simple restaurant with a nice terrace in neighbouring village Lods. You can walk to Lods using the path that goes through the fields, you can find it by walking up the street of the house for about 10-15 minutes, then its sign posted, the walk takes about 30 minutes.
This is a small camping site next to the river just outside the village towards Lods. There is a food truck in summer selling snacks. Its a nice place to go for crepes and the surroundings are pretty. There is also a place to rent canoes next to the camping.
Camping Les Oyes
D67
This is a small camping site next to the river just outside the village towards Lods. There is a food truck in summer selling snacks. Its a nice place to go for crepes and the surroundings are pretty. There is also a place to rent canoes next to the camping.

Sightseeing

There are so many beautiful walks around Mouthier-Haute-Pierre, I can't list them all here, check guidebooks and online forums. I've made a selection of some places which are well worth a visit. See also the traveler advice section.
This is a fantastic site to visit in the nearby village of Ouhans. It is a whole river flowing out of a cave, it is the "spring" of the river Loue that flows below the village of Mouthier. You can either go there by foot, taking the path that runs from the bottom of the village (near the site called Syratu) it is about 1h40 minutes walk through the Gorges of Nouailles, you will see waterfalls and caves. You can also take the car to Ouhans and park the car on the parking, then walk 400m down to the site of the source.
22 locals recommend
Source de la Loue
22 locals recommend
This is a fantastic site to visit in the nearby village of Ouhans. It is a whole river flowing out of a cave, it is the "spring" of the river Loue that flows below the village of Mouthier. You can either go there by foot, taking the path that runs from the bottom of the village (near the site called Syratu) it is about 1h40 minutes walk through the Gorges of Nouailles, you will see waterfalls and caves. You can also take the car to Ouhans and park the car on the parking, then walk 400m down to the site of the source.
The rocks of Hautepierre loom over the village of Mouthier, if you stand in front of the Epicerie and look up you will see a large cross on the top, this is a fantastic place for an evening picknick with almost 360 degree views (on clear days you can spot Mont Blanc) and a favorite spot to watch the sun go down. A great place to finish a hot day and cool down. You can walk here from the house (about 1 hour take or give 15 mins) or you can drive to Hautepierre and park the car near the church and take the path up to the top with the cross.
Hautepierre-le-Châtelet
The rocks of Hautepierre loom over the village of Mouthier, if you stand in front of the Epicerie and look up you will see a large cross on the top, this is a fantastic place for an evening picknick with almost 360 degree views (on clear days you can spot Mont Blanc) and a favorite spot to watch the sun go down. A great place to finish a hot day and cool down. You can walk here from the house (about 1 hour take or give 15 mins) or you can drive to Hautepierre and park the car near the church and take the path up to the top with the cross.
Lac Saint-Point has several beaches for bathing and boats for hire. It is about a 10 minute drive past Pontarlier.
46 locals recommend
Lac de Saint-Point
46 locals recommend
Lac Saint-Point has several beaches for bathing and boats for hire. It is about a 10 minute drive past Pontarlier.
This is the rock you can see opposite the rock of Hautepierre on the otherside of the village. You can walk there by taking the path from the stone bridge at the bottom of the village (just follow the little road up hill) it takes about 1 hour and its steep.., or you can drive there by going up to Ouhans, then Renedale, about 20 minutes drive. From here you can see the whole valley of the Loue river.
Point de vue du Moine
Prés du Moine
This is the rock you can see opposite the rock of Hautepierre on the otherside of the village. You can walk there by taking the path from the stone bridge at the bottom of the village (just follow the little road up hill) it takes about 1 hour and its steep.., or you can drive there by going up to Ouhans, then Renedale, about 20 minutes drive. From here you can see the whole valley of the Loue river.
This is the museum in Ornans dedicated to Courbet who was born in Ornans and his work largely inspired by the beauty of the Loue Valley. Courbet is the painter of the very controversial (in its time) painting called "L'orgine du Monde" which can be seen at Musee d'Orsay in Paris toghether with many of his other works.
26 locals recommend
Musee Gustave Courbet
1 Place Robert Fernier
26 locals recommend
This is the museum in Ornans dedicated to Courbet who was born in Ornans and his work largely inspired by the beauty of the Loue Valley. Courbet is the painter of the very controversial (in its time) painting called "L'orgine du Monde" which can be seen at Musee d'Orsay in Paris toghether with many of his other works.
This is Mouthiers very own art exhibition/ gallery. Mr Perrin will be more than happy to provide a guided tour. Open most weekends and by appointment (just try ringing the door bell... tends to work too). The painting of the women standing on a rock (found in the house in the bedroom with the birds) came from an exhibition called "Bonjour Monsieur Courbet" held at the Manoir (PS they do not sell art, but you can always contact an artist if you are interested in their work). Usually the exhibitions are very interesting and include not just static works of art but also films. From time to time Mr Perrin also organises music evenings.
LE MANOIR
25 Grande Rue
This is Mouthiers very own art exhibition/ gallery. Mr Perrin will be more than happy to provide a guided tour. Open most weekends and by appointment (just try ringing the door bell... tends to work too). The painting of the women standing on a rock (found in the house in the bedroom with the birds) came from an exhibition called "Bonjour Monsieur Courbet" held at the Manoir (PS they do not sell art, but you can always contact an artist if you are interested in their work). Usually the exhibitions are very interesting and include not just static works of art but also films. From time to time Mr Perrin also organises music evenings.
This is a large cave which is not really sign posted, access is a bit difficult and only for healthy adults (no small kids or elderly) with good shoes. You can find the cave by walking down to the electrical station down by the river (its on the path to Source de la Loue), then you walk behind the electrical station and follow an old path, about 10 minutes later you can see the cave above on your left. If you continue the path you will eventually end up near the old stone bridge in Mouthier, but be careful because in some places the path is steep and with sharp drops into the river...
Baume Archée
This is a large cave which is not really sign posted, access is a bit difficult and only for healthy adults (no small kids or elderly) with good shoes. You can find the cave by walking down to the electrical station down by the river (its on the path to Source de la Loue), then you walk behind the electrical station and follow an old path, about 10 minutes later you can see the cave above on your left. If you continue the path you will eventually end up near the old stone bridge in Mouthier, but be careful because in some places the path is steep and with sharp drops into the river...

City/town information

Pontarlier was once a sleepy market town but is now a booming commercial center thanks to its proximity to the Swiss border. Here you can find all the shops you need, for food I would recommend Fresh in Houtaud (supermarket with only fresh foods), or one of the 7 organic supermarkets. Coffee lovers you should not miss the Cafe Querry store. In the town centre you have a lots of boutiques and a few nice cafes.
20 locals recommend
Pontarlier
20 locals recommend
Pontarlier was once a sleepy market town but is now a booming commercial center thanks to its proximity to the Swiss border. Here you can find all the shops you need, for food I would recommend Fresh in Houtaud (supermarket with only fresh foods), or one of the 7 organic supermarkets. Coffee lovers you should not miss the Cafe Querry store. In the town centre you have a lots of boutiques and a few nice cafes.
Ornans is a small market town with old forgotten buildings situated 20 minutes down stream from Mouthier, you have all amenities there such as pharmacies, doctors etc. There is not much happening here but its worth going to visit the Courbet Museum, the Brocante shop on the town square, Boucherie Marius as well as the organic cafe on the town square... the saturday morning market also has some good organic bread and local produce.
31 locals recommend
Ornans
31 locals recommend
Ornans is a small market town with old forgotten buildings situated 20 minutes down stream from Mouthier, you have all amenities there such as pharmacies, doctors etc. There is not much happening here but its worth going to visit the Courbet Museum, the Brocante shop on the town square, Boucherie Marius as well as the organic cafe on the town square... the saturday morning market also has some good organic bread and local produce.
A 45 minute drive from Mouthier is the capital city of Franche-Comte. The old city center lies in a horseshoe bend on the Doubs River. The sprawling Citadel of Besançon perches on a hill and is home to 3 museums, a zoo and 600m-long ramparts. At the foot of the hill, Besançon Cathedral has a unique 70-­dial astronomical clock that indicates sunrise and sunset, eclipses, and tides in French ports. There are plenty of shops and cafes and quite a few marks left by the romans such as pillars and mosaics to see. The old town is made of beautiful 16-17th century stone buildings. In pre-Roman times, it was the capital of an area known as Sequania. When the area was conquered by the Romans, Julius Caesar described this naturally defensive site as "the jewel in my crown".
62 locals recommend
Besançon
62 locals recommend
A 45 minute drive from Mouthier is the capital city of Franche-Comte. The old city center lies in a horseshoe bend on the Doubs River. The sprawling Citadel of Besançon perches on a hill and is home to 3 museums, a zoo and 600m-long ramparts. At the foot of the hill, Besançon Cathedral has a unique 70-­dial astronomical clock that indicates sunrise and sunset, eclipses, and tides in French ports. There are plenty of shops and cafes and quite a few marks left by the romans such as pillars and mosaics to see. The old town is made of beautiful 16-17th century stone buildings. In pre-Roman times, it was the capital of an area known as Sequania. When the area was conquered by the Romans, Julius Caesar described this naturally defensive site as "the jewel in my crown".

City advice

Don't miss

Marche Nocturne (Night market) on Wednesdays in summer

During the summer in Mouthier some Wednesdays there is a night market which serves food and local brewed beer. There are also a few stalls of local produce. To find the timetable look out for posters on the notice boards or ask a local, they tend to happen every other week from mid June to end August.
Don't miss

La Grotte des faux Monnayeurs - (Cave in Mouthier)

This is another cave slightly easier to access, it is sign posted from the Source du Pontet on the path between Mouthier and Source de La Loue.
Don't miss

Bathing and Picknick site - Cascade de Syratu/ Tivoli

This is a nice picknick area where children can play in the stream of Syratu (under parents supervision) and adults can bathe in the river Loue (be mindful of strong currents). In spring and autumn the waterfalls upstream of the Syratu are worth a visit. It is found at the bottom of the village, there is a path behind the Epicerie or you can drive down behind the hotel. You will walk past it if taking the path to Source de la Loue.
Don't miss

Theatre des Caves - Theatre in the cellars

A series of of plays take place in hidden gardens and secret vaulted cellars in Mouthier every spring and early summer. The shows are limited to 25 spectators and tickets can be ordered online then picked up on the evening in front of the church (the place of the show stays secret until the same evening). If you are in Mouthier in May and June this is a must do for anyone interested in theatre, the plays are performed by professional actors and are of high quality. More information can be found on festivaldecaves.fr.
Getting around

Buses to Pontarlier and Besancon

If you dont feel like driving or are expecting friends to join you arriving in Besancon or Pontarlier train station, then you/ they can use the bus that runs between Pontarlier and Besacon several times a day that stops on the main street in Mouthier. You can also use it to visit Ornans.
What to pack

Some useful things to pack when coming to Mouthier

If you like hiking you should bring your hiking shoes as the area has several fantastic walks. In winter bring warm clothes and a good jacket, the countryside is beatiful in winter too. Slippers are useful around the house, the floors can be cool in winter. Bathing suit or shorts if you go canoeing or swimming (e.g. Lac Saint Point), also bring bathing towels as the towels in the house are not to be used for the beach.
Useful phrases

How to order bread for the next morning in the Epicerie.

I think Catherine speaks a bit of English (but Anne-Sophie doesn't), but if you want to impress them you can say "Bonjour, j'aimerais commander du pain pour demain" "six (6) croissants, six petits pains aux chocolat, trois (3) baguettes et un (1) pave", "mon nom est Monsieur (Mr +name) or Madame (Mrs/ Miss + name)" and finish off with "merci beaucoup".
Customs and culture

In Mouthier everyone says "Bonjour" to everyone they meet.

If you want to act as the locals do then you say "Bonjour" to every one you see and meet in the street (ideally with a smile). If you are in the car you wave.
Travelling with kids

We have baby cots available on request + 2 high chairs.

Just let us know and we will install them, we have two. There are also two highchairs in the dining room.
Customs and culture

Mouthier-Haute-Pierre recycles its waste.

For items which are recycled and go in the yellow bins you will find a chart on the wall next to the large bin in the kitchen. The yellow bins are dotted around the village, the nearest is against the wall of the Mairie, just around the corner from the house. For non-recyclable items you can use the bin under the kitchen sink. This bin is then emtied into the green bins in the village using a green key (plastic fob) that can be found in the cutlery drawer. Glass is emptied in a container at the outskirts of the village in the direction of Ornans.
Don't miss

You must try the OFYR BBQ in the back garden!

We have an OFYR BBQ in the garden and wood is provided. If you haven't used one before you can get inspiration from their website. This kind of BBQ can be used all year around, in winter you can stand around it in a circle to keep warm. The scraper for the BBQ is on the wooden shelves in the corridor leading to the garden. The BBQ should be scraped clean using basic food oil, fired up with plenty of wood, then cook food using plenty of olive oil. There is an iron grill that can be added on top to cook slow cook in casseroles. You will find an OFYR cook book in the kitchen for ideas.