Moorish architecture and decorative tiles abound in Granada, an ancient city in the southern Spanish region of Andalusia, once known as al-Andalus. Muslim culture flourished here between the 11th and late 15th centuries, and the sprawling palaces and gardens of the Alhambra are the jewel in the city’s crown. From its ochre-hued ramparts, you can see the snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada mountain range across the jumble of tiled rooftops.

Down in the heart of the old town, the cobbled streets are lined with buildings tinted soft shades of lemon, pink, and orange, and after nightfall the sounds of hundreds of conversations erupt from lively tapas bars where legs of crimson jamón ibérico hang on the walls. At the city’s heart is the soaring facade of Granada Cathedral, built in the 16th century. The University of Granada, almost 500 years old, brings thousands of students to town every year, and the campus quarter is lively with cafes and bars. In the streets of whitewashed houses that wind up the hillside in the Albaicín district, the old Moorish quarter, you can spend many hours browsing the stalls selling spices and stopping in at intimate teahouses.

Federico García Lorca Granada-Jaén Airport (GRX) is only a 30-minute drive from the centre of town by rental car or taxi. You can also take an airport bus to the city centre that terminates at Palacio de Congresos. You can reach Granada by train from across Spain and beyond, including high-speed trains from Madrid and Barcelona. Intercity buses connect to other major Spanish cities, including a three-hour service from Seville.

The city has a reliable public transport network, including a metro line that traverses from north to south and extends out to nearby villages. Urban and suburban bus lines also cross the city. However, if you’re staying near the historic centre’s maze of narrow streets, driving is particularly difficult, and you may want to avoid bringing a car and walk or bike instead.

The climate in southern Spain is generally warm and dry, but Granada is more than 700 metres above sea level and can get quite cold in the winter. The hottest summer months are July and August, while the period from November to January can see temperatures drop to freezing at night and is more likely to be cloudy or rainy. The most advisable time to stay in apartments in Granada for comfortable temperatures is in the spring, with autumn a close runner-up.

Granada’s calendar is packed with festivals, particularly colourful religious celebrations such as Holy Week, when traditional Easter processions wend through the streets. On 2 January, thousands of locals celebrate Día de la Toma (Day of the Taking), when Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand conquered the last Muslim ruler in Andalusia in 1492.

Mirador San Nicolás

Granada has many miradors, or viewpoints, but to capture an iconic photograph of the city and its famous Alhambra, the place to go is Mirador San Nicolás. Climb up through the historic Albaicín neighbourhood, either first thing in the morning or before sunset, for breathtaking vistas. The more accessible Mirador de San Cristóbal, slightly to the north, also has beautiful views over the city.

Monastery of San Jerónimo

This monastery was built at the beginning of the 16th century for the Hieronymite religious order, and the peaceful cloisters and awe-inspiring Renaissance interior are some of Granada’s hidden treasures. The fragrance of orange trees and the sound of fountains in the gardens contrast starkly with the altarpiece inside — a riot of sculpture and painted decoration, with every inch covered in golden embellishment.

Flamenco

Flamenco music and dancing have been a vital part of Andalusian culture for centuries, and Granada is no exception, with many bars and less formal venues showcasing the tradition. From an atmospheric, vaulted performance space in the Sacromonte neighbourhood to lively bars in the Albaicín, the absorbing shows are often accompanied by tapas served in traditional terracotta dishes.