Berlin’s chief international airports are conveniently situated — Berlin Brandenburg Airport Willy Brandt (BER) is 17 miles south of the city centre, while Schönefeld Airport (SXF) is only 15 miles away. Neither trip takes more than 30 minutes by bus or train. Berlin’s neighbourhoods are spread over large areas, but happily, public transport between them is excellent. The U-bahn, the city’s subway, can get you almost anywhere you want to go. It’s complemented by the commuter service S-Bahn trains, as well as a network of buses and trams. Bikes are another great way to get around, with bike shares on many street corners, and plenty of companies offering long-term rentals. Taxis can be flagged down in the street (a standard tip is 10 percent), and rideshare options are also available. It’s best to avoid driving, though, as vehicle restrictions apply in the centre of the city, which is a low-emission zone.

Summer is a wonderfully sociable time to be in Berlin, when locals decant themselves into the city’s large open spaces. Public parks come alive with the sounds of outdoor concerts and the smells of grilling meat. July and August are the hottest months, and prices can soar. Late spring and early summer can be cheaper and quieter options. Autumn has its own charms, not least because it’s when Germans celebrate Oktoberfest. Winter is cold, dark, and often wet. But it does have its saving graces, such as the cheerful Christmas markets, or the Berlin International Film Festival in February.

Berlin breathes in its green spaces, from the vast western Tiergarten with its boating lake and picturesque gardens, to Tempelhofer Feld, the repurposed airfield that’s now a popular spot for skateboarding. The Mauerpark in the Prenzlauer Berg district offers a chance to hang with the locals. On Sundays, its flea market draws neighborhood regulars, and on Sunday afternoons the atmosphere is enhanced by an outdoor karaoke session.

Checkpoint Charlie is the congested junction of Berlin Wall tourism, surrounded by souvenir stalls that give it a surreal feel. But you only have to walk a little way down the street to reach this far more affecting destination. The longest surviving section of the Wall still stands here, next to a powerful museum built on the former site of the Gestapo and SS hardquarters, which documents the atrocities carried out by the Nazi government’s terror campaigns.

The oldest residential district in Berlin, Nikolaiviertel dates back to the 13th century, although the village-like buildings you’ll see there today are mostly immaculate reconstructions. It’s a gorgeous spot from which to enjoy the river Spree, with quirky shops and cafes, the 18th-century rococo Ephraim Palace, and organ concerts every Friday in the gothic St. Nicholas Church, from which the area gets its name.