Munich is often called the land of laptops and lederhosen — a place whose embrace of both tradition and technology has seen it ranked as one of the world’s most livable cities. It might be famous for hosting Oktoberfest, the world’s biggest folk festival, but the rest of the year there’s a quiet ease about the Bavarian capital, where the beer gardens are family-friendly and the women still dress in dirndl dresses for special occasions. No building within its medieval walls is allowed to reach higher than the church towers of its Frauenkirche, and Munich feels as much a village as a city.

Its urban parks, like the spectacular Englischer Garten, are complemented by the mountains that surround it on all sides. From the hearty joys of football, taverns, and sausage and chips to the baroque beauties of the Asam Church — not to mention watching the famous giant carillon clock in the Marienplatz, the 12th-century heart of the city — Munich abounds in simple, yet ecstatic pleasures.

Munich International Airport (MUC) is the second-busiest in Germany, and is only a 40-minute train ride from the city center via the S-Bahn commuter rail network. Public transportation is an excellent option in Munich, with an eight-line subway (U-Bahn) to serve the inner city and buses that connect further outward to the suburbs. Streetcars run all night, and there are even a few of the original vintage carriages still operating. Cycling is popular, thanks to the city’s network of one-way streets and Fahrradstrassen (bicycle streets). If you do rent a car, street parking is not expensive, but it can be hard to find.

Munich attracts lots of visitors in high summer, when its closeness to the mountains makes it a popular vacation destination. In September, millions of people arrive from across the globe for the Oktoberfest 16-day celebration of Bavarian culture. If you’re not joining the throng, it can be better to time to rent one of the city’s apartments earlier in the fall, or even in spring, when temperatures here are usually milder than in the north of Germany. There’s plenty to experience during the colder months too, such as the parties and balls of Fasching, the citywide carnival that runs from January to March.

The River Isar

You can’t really miss it: The river splits the city from southwest to northeast. There are more than 1,000 bridges connecting the two sides, and locals bathe, swim, fish, and enjoy themselves in its waters. Its most extraordinary feature is the Eisbach, or Ice Stream, a manmade river that experienced surfers can enjoy year-round. You can also rent a canoe and make your own way between its banks.

Glockenbachviertel

Formerly the Jewish quarter, then home to the city’s gay and lesbian community, this Munich neighborhood has emerged as one of the city’s most photogenic spots, thanks to its colorful residences, trendy bars, foodie haunts, and independent boutiques. Gärtnerplatz, a short walk away, is home to the city’s elegant 19th-century opera house.

Müllersches Volksbad

With its baroque exterior and Art Nouveau décor, Müllersches Volksbad (built in 1901) is one of the most eye-catching public swimming pools in the world. To get into the true Bavarian spirit, ditch your clothes and head for the sauna. The practice of Freikörperkultur (free body culture) means that public nudity is not uncommon in Munich, where parks have special FKK areas where it’s acceptable to go naked.